Driving the SS163 (Strada Statale 163) along the Amalfi Coast is an exercise in extreme contrasts. The views of the Tyrrhenian Sea are paralyzingly beautiful, while the road itself is terrifyingly narrow. Covering just 40 miles over three days might sound absurd to North American drivers, but in southern Italy, it is the perfect pace.
Why This Route?
The Amalfi Coast drive is a bucket-list item for driving enthusiasts, not because it's fast, but because it is demanding. You are navigating cliff edges, local buses that take up two-thirds of the road, and mopeds darting in from all angles. Splitting the route over three days allows you to park the car mid-afternoon, decompress with a spritz, and actually enjoy the towns you are passing through.
Day 1: Sorrento to Positano (approx. 10 miles)
Pick up your rental in Sorrento. Before heading east, spend the morning exploring the town. When you hit the SS163, prepare for immediate engagement. The road hugs the cliffs tightly, with a stone wall separating you from a sheer drop to the Mediterranean. The mileage is tiny, but the slow pace and sheer concentration required will make it feel much longer. Arrive in Positano, park the car (expect to pay heavily for a garage spot), and explore the vertical town on foot.
Day 2: Positano to Ravello (approx. 15 miles)
Leaving Positano, you head towards the town of Amalfi. This stretch features some of the most famous switchbacks and the tightest squeeze points on the route. When a large tourist bus approaches from the opposite direction, local etiquette dictates that the most nimble vehicle reverses to a slightly wider section of the road. After passing through Amalfi, you will make the steep, winding ascent away from the coast up into Ravello. The elevation provides staggering views and a quieter, more refined atmosphere.
Day 3: Ravello to Salerno (approx. 15 miles)
Descend from Ravello back to the coastal road. The final stretch towards Salerno is slightly less frantic than the sections near Positano, but remains incredibly picturesque as you pass through Minori, Maiori, and Vietri sul Mare (famous for its ceramics). Drop the car in Salerno, which has excellent high-speed train connections back to Rome or Naples.
Pros and Cons
Pros
- Aesthetically unparalleled coastal towns.
- Incredible local food, especially lemons and seafood.
- A highly engaging, active driving experience.
Cons
- Summer traffic can turn the road into a parking lot.
- Parking is scarce and extremely expensive.
- Stressful for nervous drivers.
Practical Information
| Detail | Recommendation |
|---|---|
| Best Time to Go | April/May or September/October. Avoid August at all costs. |
| Vehicle Choice | The smallest car you can possibly fit into (e.g., Fiat 500). Width is your enemy here. |
| Driving Laws | During peak season, an alternate-day driving rule is enforced based on your license plate number (odd/even). Check local regulations before booking. |
| Insurance | Get full coverage with zero deductible. Scratched wing mirrors are almost guaranteed. |